On the way to the Isle of Mull or Castlebay on Barra lies an inconspicuous castle ruin on the Sound of Mull. But it tells an exciting story that delves deep into the past of the Scottish Highlands.
Ardtornish Castle was once part of the maritime realm of the Lords of the Isles and is known as a galley castle, which means ‘galley castle’. These unique fortresses served as strategic bases for ships and to secure the important sea routes that connected the many islands of Scotland. Located on the Sound of Mull, it is clear to see why this castle was so crucial to maritime trade and defence in its heyday.
One of the castle’s most famous inhabitants was John of Islay, the first Lord of the Isles. He played a key role in building the Gaelic island kingdom and skilfully used his political contacts to consolidate the realm. John of Islay was not only a powerful leader, but also a skilful tactician who forged the right alliances to secure his legacy. He died on Ardtornish in 1386 and was then buried on Iona.
But the history of Ardtornish Castle also has to do with the downfall of the Lords of the Isles. For the last Lord of the Isles, Donald of Islay, made a decision here that heralded the decline of the Gaelic kingdom. in 1462, several clans signed the Treaty of Westminster-Ardtornish, which established an alliance with the English King Edward IV. This act was seen as high treason, as “stab Scotland in the back with a Celtic dirk.” – “stab Scotland in the back with a Celtic dagger”.
John II then had to give up his claims to the earldom of Ross. In an attempt to regain it in 1491, the kingdom finally perished.
The castle was later taken over by the MacLean clan, but they too gave it up at the end of the 16th century. The Campbells then owned the land. Today, the Ardtornish Estate is owned by the English Raven family, who have renovated Lochaline Castle, built homes and holiday accommodation and much more.
How to get there
Ardtornish Castle can be seen either from the ferry to Coll and Tiree, or from the ferry to Castlebay on Barra.
If you want to get closer to the ruins, you can only do so on foot. From Mull, you can reach Ardtornish via the ferry from Fishnish to Lochaline. From there, take the road northwards. After a few minutes, a road branches off to the right to the Ardtornish Estate. Drive through to the estate and park. From here, however, it is around 13 kilometres there and back.
The description can be found on Walkhighlands.