The waterfall of the small river Shin roars through a narrow rock cut. To get to their breeding grounds, salmon have to overcome the fast current with wild leaps. A fascinating spectacle.
The valley that the River Shin cuts into the landscape is overgrown with trees, ferns and mosses. Branches with red berries bend down from above. A feast for the eyes.
And then this: large fish jump out of the water at the rapids and waterfalls. Against the current, they try to overcome the height. They are Scottish wild salmon travelling up the river to their spawning grounds. They have to overcome the Falls of Shin.
For the animals, however, this is a real fight for survival. Not every fish has the strength to fight its way upstream through the strong current. And so you see salmon making several attempts.
In order to be able to observe the waterfalls and the salmon, several viewing platforms have been created, which are connected by a small circular path. From the large car park at the visitor centre, it is only a few minutes downhill to the first viewing point. A few onlookers can already crowd the railings. But many give up in disappointment when they realise that it takes patience and concentration to watch the fast fish jump.
The first viewing platform at the top is also the one where we saw the most fish. The lower one shows a view of a quieter, more idyllic waterfall. Definitely worth a visit.
The waterfalls are the main attraction, but the visitor centre at the top of the car park offers even more. There is a large children’s playground, a café and a restaurant, which are open alternately to serve seven days a week, as well as pitches for motorhomes.
Cycling and hiking trails through the surrounding woods also start from the car park.
After the old centre burned down in 2013, it was rebuilt and made even better. Reader Britta writes in the comments:
The Visitors Centre at the Fall of Shin is completely finished and absolutely successful. The design in the shape of a salmon, the great information boards (including little jokes – not just for the little ones: “What did the salmon say when he swam into a wall? Dam!” or “Where do baby salmon sleep? On the river bed.”), the tearoom with adjoining gift shop. And a really worthwhile outdoor area with a great children’s playground.
It’s absolutely worth the detour.
Tip: The best time to see salmon
Salmon are most active in October and November. Otherwise, salmon can almost always be seen. Generally speaking, the fish are more active in the morning or evening. It is also good if it has rained beforehand.
In any case, you should take something against midges with you. When waiting on the platform, the little biting flies can become a real nuisance.
Knowledge: Why salmon migrate
Salmon are born in fresh water and then migrate to the sea after one to four years, where they live for a few years as saltwater fish and become fully grown. However, they then return to their birthplace to spawn. They therefore often have to travel hundreds or even thousands of kilometres. In doing so, they naturally swim against the current of the river and have to jump up rapids and waterfalls. Quite a few die of exhaustion in the process.
Once they reach the top, the salmon mate. Once this has happened, many animals die again. Only a few manage to overwinter in fresh water and repeat the whole game the next year.
If you would like to find out more about the salmon, you can also visit the information boards at the gift shop next to the Falls of Shin.
Personal note: Patience and concentration
We had to bring time with us to take the photos. And we also had to concentrate, a salmon jumps quickly and you never know when and where it will appear. But it was a lot of fun and very exciting.
Approach:
Coming from Inverness, take the A9 north until just before the Dornoch Firth Bridge, turn left at the roundabout onto the A836 towards Bonar Bridge. At the roundabout, the Falls of Shin are already signposted as a brown tourist sign. Continue over the Bonar Bridge. The road ends at a T-junction, turn left here towards Lairg. Keep going until the junction with the A837 goes off to the left, the falls are already signposted here too. After about 400 metres you pass a bridge, then turn right. Follow this road to the car park.
From Ullapool, head north on the A835 until it meets the A837 coming from Lochinver at the famous Ledmore junction. Turn right here towards Lairg. At the junction for the A839 to Lairg, do not take this road but continue straight on to Bonar Bridge. Before the bridge, turn left to the Falls of Shin.
From Kyle of Durness, take the A838 directly alongside Loch Shin. Shortly before Lairg, it meets the A836, which you turn right onto and drive through Lairg. Almost at the end of Lairg there is a bridge on the right over the River Shin – this is the A839 to Ullapool. Cross the bridge and then immediately turn left onto the road to the Falls of Shin Visitor Centre car park.